Lake Nemi is off the beaten tourist track even though it's just a few miles from Rome. In fact, it's off the beaten track for Italians looking for a lake vacation. What was once the spot for fabulous hillside villas -- plus Caligula's two floating palace-ships -- is now home mostly to tired little farms, a nifty museum (originally built for those ships), a restaurant, a place to swim -- the Agriturismo Le Grotte. Pietro is a splendid host. When we arrived late, he had us follow him into town to find the one open restaurant. His place is clean, and not a soul was there except a few cats, a dog next door, and us. The breakfast provided in the room was a little too bare bones; we'd suggest bringing some food of your own. The room was clean (sheets a little scratchy). Best was the view: looking down at the lake from the north, a few meters from the Temple of Diana, amid what was once the sacred grove where the very curious King of the Grove presided until some other escaped slave plucked the golden bough and killed him.