We had a fantastic dinner at Row 34 tonight. We couldn’t decide between appetizers, so we just ordered them all (except for the chowder, because we just didn’t feel like having chowder), plus a glass each of their sparkling wine, and called it dinner. Plus the Cured and Smoked Board to start. Good lord what a feast. In between appetizer courses we switched to IPAs (I know, quite a jump from sparkling wine, but the menu and our thirst level demanded it). Our server didn’t blink. He advised us on beer pairing with a twinkle in his eye, and made sure timing was right so the table wouldn’t be overwhelmed with plates. And what plates! That Cured and Smoked Board is to die for — the uni toast is unctuous and decadent, and balanced well with the rest of the board, which includes bread, house-made pickles, and creme fraiche. The steamed mussels are savory, not overly salted (a common error), and spiked with coins of chorizo. The two salads were beautiful, so tasty, and perfectly dressed — although the snap pea salad was a tad fibrous. The salmon collar? If you order no other app during your visit, order this one if it’s available. It was cooked to tender, crisp-skinned perfection and served with a glaze that was a sweet-umami delight. Of course we had to try a dessert after dinner. If cheesecake is on the menu, and you like cheesecake, order it. It’s custardy, luscious, and served with macerated strawberries and a cannelle of barely sweetened whipped cream. Try it with a blushy dessert wine and your evening will be complete.