Bangkok, like most Asian cities, is 95% low quality concrete and no Asian city is a patch on a great European city. However, if you are in this huge city to see something of Thai society, rather than the overpriced shopping, the exploitative bars and the squalid sex industry, the city within 1km of the river, particularly the east bank, is fascinating.
This tiny hotel is so close to the river that it projects into it. It has charm in bucketfuls and a staff who try hard to keep it that way. It's on the edge of Bangkok's wonderfully ramshackle but picturesque Chinatown which the generals' business friends haven't yet all "developed" into 50 floors of ferro-concrete. This hotels' great asset is that you could spend all day/evening in it watching the river life in front of it. Last night I ate in (they have a tiny kitchen which produces competent, simple Thai food) and spent two hours watching the last of the evening public service boats, the tugs towing three or four large "rice barges" and that was a scene that Conrad and Somerset-Maugham would have recognised 100 years ago. This is the romance of this great river city. What neither would recognise are the garishy-lit ugly river boats full of package tourists that throb up and down in front of this hotel blaring disco music. This hotel is at the noisiest part of the river that I have ever stayed at in 30 years of coming to this city. One particularly garish boat is lit up as pink; this being Bangkok perhaps it caters primarily for Katoeys. It appeared to end up moored outside the Sheraton and one wondered what the Tex and Tracy Turnblatts from Tennessee think of this camp kitsch outside their hotel. Every few years there is a tragedy on this river, an overcrowded hotel pontoon sinking or a crash involving one of the express boats and last night I thought I was about to witness another when one of these gross entertainment boats for some reason started to turn around in front of this little hotel. One of the powerful tugs with four large rice barges joined by cables was making as much of a noise as it could to tell the glitzo-boat to get out of the way. Some woman on board the latter was performing a bawled-out version of "I shall survive" which I thought rather optimistic bearing in mind that her boat was about 75% glass from about 1 metre above the waterline and what was bearing down on it was very much all steel and very, very heavy. But she did survive, they missed each other.
From both floors' balconies it is instructive to look at one of the city's better quality tower blocks across the river, Baan Chao-Phyra. So few of its large, expensive windows are lit at night and one reads in the Thai business press how Chinese investors are pouring into Thai condominium property. President Xi is known for trying to uncover the assets of his former comrades who have become his running dog enemies. Perhaps he might learn something to his advantage if his agents in Bangkok could identify the owners of these expensive unused apartments.
So much for the charm of the hotel and the interesting river immediately in front of it, the hotel has lots of flaws:
Perhaps you should reasonably sensibly discount the flood risk of this hotel- presumably you have done your research on what time of the year that this might occur and you have avoided the risky time.
What you cannot do anything about is that when this old wooden building was renovated and turned into a 7 room hotel appearance was everything and no effort was made to have a roof with adequate insulation from Bangkok's ubiquitously blazing sun. The common area on the top floor is so hot after midday as to be unusable. My top floor room gets so hot that I can sleep only with the air -conditioning on and since the fan speed control is paralyzed at full and the unit is over my bed this is very noisy.
If the large window had a mosquito screen I could try sleeping with the windows open but they haven't so I cannot.
For this part of my trip I'm by myself so for my 4 nights in this hotel (which isn't inexpensive) I chose their sole single room . This is no smaller than quite sensible rooms in nice Tokyo hotels but the owners here have spent attention on appearance and ignored the actual needs of their customers. For example where there should be a wardrobe there is a quaint bit of furniture which has too little capacity to be any use so I'm living out of a suitcase. Similar stupidities are locating the on/off switches for the brightest of the two room lights and for the air conditioning in such daft places that you have to stand on the bed to operate them.
There is no fridge. The security box is a very light one that anyone could pick up and run off with so it is intended to be screwed to a wall- not here it isn't. Nor do its electronics actually work. In such a little hotel one has little risk of theft from staff or other residents but it would be very easy to get into this hotel over the roofs of adjacent properties (or even actually through it's flimsy walls) so don't come to this hotel with more valuables than essential.
The external walls to this room is a single layer of wooden planking with gaps through which I can see daylight and the mosquitoes can see me. The internal walls are very thin as well so one is forced to listen to the staff's tastes in music and the conversations of US visitors.
The floors too are wooden and there is no fire exit to this building. I think that in a fire one's recourse would be to the river but that's a sewer with a strong flow and lots of boats with propellers to chop you up it doesn't bear too much thought. I suppose one only dies once.
The bed's mattress is a budget thing and I wake up in the morning with a sore back as a result.
For some reason the hotel thinks that it's quoted rate for a taxi to the airport of 700 Baht is reasonable. By the time my metered taxi from the airport had actually found this hidden hotel the reading was less than 300Baht, to which I needed to add extras of 125 Baht.
So a charming but not cheap hotel with good staff in a fascinating part of Bangkok but a seriously flawed hotel.