Go early, ask for a drink from the bar on the roof, get yourself a sharing plate of antipasti and a bottle of chilled rose and watch the sun go down while the swifts scream past and the calls to prayer echo off the ancient walls. Then go downstairs, tuck yourself into a little table and eat the most fabulous food served by attentive but not intrusive staff. Stefania and Mia are careful, knowledgeable and gracious hosts.
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