Varese Ligure is a small town just a short drive from Levanto, but it is like stepping into another world. We arrived on a Saturday about 1 pm and the streets were empty. Fortunately, Vinera del Borgo was open. The inside eating area is tiny,...but cozy. We stood out as obviously American tourists, but the owner and the other guests welcomed us just like we were old friends stopping by for a Saturday lunch. We got the Croxetti, a disk shaped pasta, served with a cream sauce and walnuts. It was fantastic and very authentic rural Italian cooking.
After lunch we strolled the empty streets. Around 3:30 the people began filling the town square. What had been a sleepy place became alive. Apparently the long lunch/nap is still alive in small Italian towns. It was wonderful to experience this pace of life, so different from the tourist packed Cinque Terre. If you are looking for a town where you can see real Italian life, Varese Ligure will fill the bill. And Vinera del Borgo will provide a wonderful sense of rural cooking.More