Landing at the Xakanaxa airstrip we were met by Ketz, our Camp X guide for the next few days, and climbed aboard the 4WD buzzing with excitement. Twenty minutes later we were amazed to see a female leopard lying beneath a tree, calling for her cubs. This was brilliant! One of our greatest wishes was to have the opportunity to witness a leopard, so this sighting before we'd even checked in just about made our trip! Arriving at Camp X we were greeted by the staff singing a welcome song; their beautiful voices and lovely harmonies made us feel very special indeed. We were then presented with cooling towels and refreshing iced tea, much enjoyed after the dusty drive. After lunch we checked out our tent which was adjacent to a large water channel. As we admired the balcony view a couple of boats motored slowly past, taking people to look for wildlife. The river is home to the ubiquitous crocodile, and we were advised not to step down from the balcony to try and get closer to the water's edge. On the afternoon game drive Ketz located hippos, waterbuck, impala, zebra, and elephants. As we continued our drive we came across lions that were very well hidden in the tall grass. To us they were not visible until we were almost upon them, and sitting in the 4WD only a few metres away felt very special. They really were quite unconcerned over our presence. Ketz stopped near a waterhole where we stretched our legs and had the obligatory sundowners as we watched hippos some distance from the water's edge. Standing outside the 4WD somehow added to the excitement of witnessing these huge creatures. On the way back to Camp X we noticed some people standing around photographing something on the ground. When we arrived we discovered they had found a pangolin, one of the rarest animals in Africa. Watching the animal going about its business, oblivious to all the attention, was bitter-sweet. It was wonderful that we saw the animal, but sad that this very unusual animal was endangered. Saturday saw us up early for a light breakfast before heading out on a game drive, where we saw a group of elephants including a baby. The Matriarch was out in front, and the bull followed at the rear, with the baby walking in the middle of the group, protected on all sides by other family members. We saw many birds, including lilac-breasted rollers and African fish eagles. The rollers are magnificently coloured in shades of purple, orange, yellow, blue and green, and make for beautiful photography. The fish eagles looked very majestic as they perched in the trees to survey the land below. There were also some wading marabou storks which Ketz said were also known as the "undertaker bird". Google them, and you'll see why. There were also zebra, impala, waterbuck, helmeted guinea fowl, hippos, and a male lion sniffing the air, checking for female scent. Soon after we came across some lionesses snoozing in the nearby grass, meaning his girl-detector was well-calibrated. A very welcome morning tea was had beside the hippo pond, and then it was off again to find more animals. We came upon two male lechwe having a battle, seemingly intent on inflicting damage to each other. The fight became quite violent, and at one point they locked horns and couldn't separate, rendering themselves vulnerable to attack. We watched as they wrestled for a few minutes and wondered what they would do if the lions we had seen wandered by. After some time, they unlocked, and the victor chased the other away back to the bachelor herd. Boys eh?, always looking for trouble. A highlight was finding a leopard ensconced in a sausage tree, stretched out on a branch. As with all cats she occasionally got up, did some "circle work" and stretched out again. We were able to watch her for a long time, camera shutters working overtime. Game drive over we found a comfy spot at the camp overlooking the river and enjoyed some very good South African white wine. The bar here was self-service and all inclusive, so we sampled a few different bevvies. During the afternoon game drive we chased hippos, meaning, every time we stopped to photograph them they would submerge, then pop up further along the water's edge. We did eventually capture some good images, but they didn't make it easy. At one point an elephant in must stopped us dead in our tracks, causing Ketz to put the 4WD into reverse so we didn't become embroiled in any testosterone-induced nonsense. Big guys in this hormonal condition can be brutal if provoked, and apparently just breathing can annoy them. After enjoying more sundowners by the hippo pond we headed back to camp, and as the other guests made their way back to their tents to prepare for dinner, we enjoyed some sparkling wine on the deck. The sky was beautiful - just right to have a slow dance under the stars, and as we swayed to the sound of Neil Young's "Harvest Moon" we soaked up the atmosphere of Camp Xakanaxa. When it was time to go back to our tent to prepare for dinner we encountered one slight problem who went by the name "Oscar". Oscar is one very large male hippo who considers the Camp X grounds as his personal feeding station. He wanders in and is just there, munching the short grass as the rest of the world goes about its business. One of the camp staff came up to us and suggested we follow him back to our tent - the long way round, giving Oscar a very wide berth. Although somewhat socialised he is still a wild animal. Before dinner we were entertained by the camp staff singing and dancing. Their enthusiasm and vocalisations were outstanding, and the dancing captivating. Afterwards they led us to dinner by singing "Let's go together", and most of us joined in, singing all the way to our tables. Sunday morning dawned overcast as we headed out on our last game drive. We watched a breeding herd of elephants cross the waterway and a large herd of Cape buffalo cross the road ahead of our 4WD. We also saw impala, zebra, lions and hippos, and found a bleached hippo skull lying in the dirt. Some giraffes also wandered past, strolling to their next feed. We also came across an elephant that was intermittently drinking, then resting its trunk on the ground, apparently taking catnaps whilst standing. What a good trick! The afternoon brought a boat ride through the channels, where we encountered crocodiles on the shore and many different species of birdlife. There was also one solo male elephant, who we were told was about 40 years old, standing in shoulder-high water eating the tender grasses. We floated near this distinguished gentleman for a while then motored off to have sundowners on an island amongst the channels, leaving him to enjoy his dinner in peace. At our dinner we were treated to a farewell song by the staff, a poignant reminder that tonight would be our last at Camp X. We were joined at our table by the camp manager Andy and as the evening rolled past we shared stories about our homes, families and lives. We decided that Andy has the best office in the world! Camp Xakanaxa is a wonderful place to holiday. The staff are very professional and friendly, the accommodation and services are outstanding, and the setting is just magnificent. The camp atmosphere gives a feeling of being in a place where nature comes out from the wild and walks right into your soul. It is indeed a very special place... Terry and Maree Australia…
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