Chagres National Park
Chagres National Park
4.5
About
Located on the eastern side of the Panama Canal, this 300,000-acre park features the Chagres River and Lake Alajuela, which are popular spots for camping, rafting, fishing and other water sports.
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Most Recent: Reviews ordered by most recent publish date in descending order.
Detailed Reviews: Reviews ordered by recency and descriptiveness of user-identified themes such as waiting time, length of visit, general tips, and location information.
4.5
52 reviews
Excellent
30
Very good
15
Average
5
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2
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0
Harmonie
Antwerp, Belgium808 contributions
Dec 2019
The pirogue journey on the Chagres river is already worth the visit on its own, for the beautiful scenery and wildlife on and along the river.
We visited the village of Parara Puru and received a warm and friendly welcome. While drinking a local juice we got very interesting explanations about the live, history and culture of the Embera that came to this region in the mid 50's of last century. One can wander around the village on its own, visit the small primary school, see people preparing their meal and purchase nice artwork.
Both the fruits offered and the fried tilapia in a banana leaf were very tasty.
And, of course, the visit ends with a "folkloristic" dance by the local community.
All in all: a colorful and interesting day!
We visited the village of Parara Puru and received a warm and friendly welcome. While drinking a local juice we got very interesting explanations about the live, history and culture of the Embera that came to this region in the mid 50's of last century. One can wander around the village on its own, visit the small primary school, see people preparing their meal and purchase nice artwork.
Both the fruits offered and the fried tilapia in a banana leaf were very tasty.
And, of course, the visit ends with a "folkloristic" dance by the local community.
All in all: a colorful and interesting day!
Written 10 January 2020
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
bcirish
Crest Hill, IL485 contributions
Mar 2013 • Family
We were visiting the area by cruise ship and had been given the gift of this tour to visit the National Park where this group of natives live in the style of their ancestors. Their housing is raised thatched huts and the village experience was probably the best experience of our 11 day cruise. We did have a bit of a ride but throughout the bus ride our guide was very helpful and informative. When we arrived at the river we donned life jackets and sort of slid our way down the embankment of the river where one by one we clamored into a long dug out canoe which took us along the river past another native village to the Ebera village where we would meet the natives and learn about their lifestyle history and culture.
We experienced local food, music and dance as well as learning about the local customs and learning about how they make their goods which help sustain their lives giving them currency to purchase items that they do not make themselves.
I personally found the body painting fascinating. When we first arrived I thought it was all tattooing and quite extensive but they explained that it is more like a washable ink from a plant which they may chose to rub on their body thereby darkening the skin or paint on designs using type of paint brush. All of this eventually wears off through bathing. They use it for decoration and also to protect themselves from the sun and from the insects. Speaking of insects - as we walked up the path, I saw some of the nastiest looking red ants that I have ever seen but they did not seem to bother anyone - they looked like a cross between red ants and spiders - gonna have to look that one up!
They use local materials for carving and incorporate beads which they often purchase to create jewelry and clothing for the men.
The people in the village live in the village - it was not contrived or concocted for the tourists although I believe that they have very successfully found a way to supplement their income and educate others of their lifestyle. Very impressed with this experience and would recommend to anyone in the area.
I would not suggest for people with mobility problems since you may end up dealing with somewhat steep muddy river banks to board on and going ashore from the dugout - at both ends of the journey. The experience would be good with most school age children especially middle elementary and older since they may find it interesting. I would suggest some research prepping by parents beforehand to enhance the experience.
We experienced local food, music and dance as well as learning about the local customs and learning about how they make their goods which help sustain their lives giving them currency to purchase items that they do not make themselves.
I personally found the body painting fascinating. When we first arrived I thought it was all tattooing and quite extensive but they explained that it is more like a washable ink from a plant which they may chose to rub on their body thereby darkening the skin or paint on designs using type of paint brush. All of this eventually wears off through bathing. They use it for decoration and also to protect themselves from the sun and from the insects. Speaking of insects - as we walked up the path, I saw some of the nastiest looking red ants that I have ever seen but they did not seem to bother anyone - they looked like a cross between red ants and spiders - gonna have to look that one up!
They use local materials for carving and incorporate beads which they often purchase to create jewelry and clothing for the men.
The people in the village live in the village - it was not contrived or concocted for the tourists although I believe that they have very successfully found a way to supplement their income and educate others of their lifestyle. Very impressed with this experience and would recommend to anyone in the area.
I would not suggest for people with mobility problems since you may end up dealing with somewhat steep muddy river banks to board on and going ashore from the dugout - at both ends of the journey. The experience would be good with most school age children especially middle elementary and older since they may find it interesting. I would suggest some research prepping by parents beforehand to enhance the experience.
Written 16 March 2013
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Jenny201110
Belleville, IL489 contributions
Mar 2013 • Couples
I had a cruise excursion to visit Embera Indian village during Panama Canal cruise. Embera Indian migrated to Chagres National Park area and lives in the park. Their life style has changed some since the national park limited their change to hunt animals. They fish in river from dugout canoes. They do wonderful crafts from wood carving by men to basket wavering and beads jewelry by women. They graciously welcome visitors to their village. Lunch was served with fried fish and plantain in banana leaf and very sweet pineapple. They performed their traditional dance and invited visitors to dance with them. I highly recommend visiting Embera Indian village, and do not forget to bring enough cash to buy their beautiful crafts, which will be a good memory of your trip and support Embera Indian people to live peaceful in the national park.
Written 27 March 2013
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
David-AppomattoxVA
Appomattox, VA173 contributions
Dec 2013 • Family
Our visit to Chagres National Park was part of a tour by My Friend Mario/Almiza Tours (which I recommend). The tour company met us at the cruise ship terminal in Colon and we drove in a small bus to where we were met by Embara Indians with a motorized dugout canoes. It is a beautiful trip through the man made lake to one of their villages. Also, we went further upstream in the canoes and then walked along a creek to a beautiful waterfall and some swimming.
The Embara immigrated to the area about 80 years ago and are able to live in the National Park by arrangement with the government. This really is a special opportunity. Few of us will ever just wander into an indian village and be welcomed with a glimpse into their lives. The experience was everything I could reasonably hope it could be. It was not overly touristy. Tourism is part of their lives now. But this is the real deal.
We were welcomed with traditional instruments. We toured the village (but were not allowed inside the homes). The assistant chief and a woman in the village told about their history, lives, and crafts. (The woman only spoke the Embara language, which the chief translated to Spanish, and the tour guide translated to English). We were served a delicious lunch of fish, plantains and fruit that was prepared as we toured and listened. Of course there was opportunity to buy some of their crafts, which we were more than happy to do. They danced for us (which seemed a little touristy, but that's ok). They are nice people and we really appreciated the opportunity to meet them and visit their village.
Really, when else would you get to do something like this?
The Embara immigrated to the area about 80 years ago and are able to live in the National Park by arrangement with the government. This really is a special opportunity. Few of us will ever just wander into an indian village and be welcomed with a glimpse into their lives. The experience was everything I could reasonably hope it could be. It was not overly touristy. Tourism is part of their lives now. But this is the real deal.
We were welcomed with traditional instruments. We toured the village (but were not allowed inside the homes). The assistant chief and a woman in the village told about their history, lives, and crafts. (The woman only spoke the Embara language, which the chief translated to Spanish, and the tour guide translated to English). We were served a delicious lunch of fish, plantains and fruit that was prepared as we toured and listened. Of course there was opportunity to buy some of their crafts, which we were more than happy to do. They danced for us (which seemed a little touristy, but that's ok). They are nice people and we really appreciated the opportunity to meet them and visit their village.
Really, when else would you get to do something like this?
Written 20 December 2013
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Plm
Austin, TX183 contributions
Mar 2016 • Friends
Look, the park itself is great, but the miserable villagers were kind of a sham.
1. An hour and a half bus ride,
2. then a 7 minute power motored canoe ride
3. to a village of uninhabited straw huts ( the villagers actually live in concrete buildings behind the "village" with satellite dishes, computers, tvs)
4. the villagers wear Hawaiian costumes (that they tell you they bought online from China)
5. then feed you tilapia that they grew in a kiddie pool behind the huts
6. as they try to sell you baskets, jewelry, trinkets that they also admit buying from China
If this sounds authentic and fun to you, then this is the excursion for you!
The exact items that they try to sell you and they also sell right at the port for less. Save money by buying it at the port.
If you bring candy for the kids the adult men will take it and eat it right in front of you. They also beg for donations. Ostensibly for the kids. You know, like the candy. The kids have uniforms that they wear to school and also they wear regular western clothing when the tourists aren't around. On the short canoe ride to the village you pass the villagers who are not working the tourists washing themselves and their clothing in the river. The people who are working that day looked absolutely miserable. In our photos none of them are smiling. They looks totally unhappy and like they would rather be anywhere else on the planet.
It is a total sham. An interesting scam, but there is nothing authentic about this place. They do live right nearby, they definitely don't seem to have any employment opportunities besides the scam, and they all go in to the city regularly for school and food and entertainment. They even have trucks so the river access that you take is unnecessary.
On our bus ride back everyone was voicing their doubts and disappointed opinions to each other and the tour director. We were all laughing about how we cruised to Panama and traveled into the jungle just to have them try and sell us cheap Chinese merchandise. None of the 50 people in our tour left thinking that this was authentic. We all saw the satellite dishes, concrete buildings, trucks, and modern haircuts these people were sporting. Think Disney's jungle cruise. It is all novelty.
1. An hour and a half bus ride,
2. then a 7 minute power motored canoe ride
3. to a village of uninhabited straw huts ( the villagers actually live in concrete buildings behind the "village" with satellite dishes, computers, tvs)
4. the villagers wear Hawaiian costumes (that they tell you they bought online from China)
5. then feed you tilapia that they grew in a kiddie pool behind the huts
6. as they try to sell you baskets, jewelry, trinkets that they also admit buying from China
If this sounds authentic and fun to you, then this is the excursion for you!
The exact items that they try to sell you and they also sell right at the port for less. Save money by buying it at the port.
If you bring candy for the kids the adult men will take it and eat it right in front of you. They also beg for donations. Ostensibly for the kids. You know, like the candy. The kids have uniforms that they wear to school and also they wear regular western clothing when the tourists aren't around. On the short canoe ride to the village you pass the villagers who are not working the tourists washing themselves and their clothing in the river. The people who are working that day looked absolutely miserable. In our photos none of them are smiling. They looks totally unhappy and like they would rather be anywhere else on the planet.
It is a total sham. An interesting scam, but there is nothing authentic about this place. They do live right nearby, they definitely don't seem to have any employment opportunities besides the scam, and they all go in to the city regularly for school and food and entertainment. They even have trucks so the river access that you take is unnecessary.
On our bus ride back everyone was voicing their doubts and disappointed opinions to each other and the tour director. We were all laughing about how we cruised to Panama and traveled into the jungle just to have them try and sell us cheap Chinese merchandise. None of the 50 people in our tour left thinking that this was authentic. We all saw the satellite dishes, concrete buildings, trucks, and modern haircuts these people were sporting. Think Disney's jungle cruise. It is all novelty.
Written 20 March 2016
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Steve F
Guelph, Canada168 contributions
Mar 2017 • Couples
On a Caribbean cruise with Oceania, we chose to visit the Embera indigenous people. The Embera are known as the keepers of the rainforest and the Piedra River. On arrival at Chagres National Park, we boarded a motorized catamaran for a trip to the Embera village on the shore of Lake Gatun. Dugout canoes were originally a critical factor in the conquering of the jungle and in establishing supply lines for both the Indians and the Spanish. On the way to the village we saw two sloths and a variety of birds. After the ride upriver, we saw the village emerge from the jungle. The village men welcomed us with traditional Embera music and percussion. Little kids flocked toward us to take in the current crop of visitors. A young woman gave us some and background on who and how their handicrafts were made, then demonstrated some traditional dances. We were encouraged to join in toward the end of one of their dances. The Embera are spectacular craftspeople, and visitors to their village of 36 people are their livelihood. Because of the strict regulations of the national park they cannot hunt or cut trees, they can fish for subsistence and can grow some vegetables. But mainly they rely on visitors buying their carvings, baskets fabrics and jewelry. It wasn’t clear whether they were paid by the tour groups. The children were used to this strange lifestyle and would readily pose for pictures. They loved to see themselves on cellphone videos and knew how to activate a video. Apparently the older children take a canoe to school in Colon. Not sure if it was a motorized canoe, or people powered. According to our guide, Eric, the Embera indigenous peoples originated with the Incas in Peru. Over time they moved across Central America until the last stop in Panama. We later found out from Roy, our current favorite server that there is another tribe that lives on an island in the lake.A wonderful experience
Written 30 March 2017
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
HenryinPanama
Panama6 contributions
The development of Altos de Cerro Azul is located within the boundaries of Chagres National Park and provides one of the few places to overnight inside the Park.
My wife treated me to a night at Ginger House for my birthday. Ginger House is an upscale Bed and Breakfast surrounded by rain forest and adorned with many beautiful flowers. Capuchin Monkeys and Coatimundis are frequent visitors. Situated at about 2700 feet above sea level, the area is cool, sometimes chilly, at night and shirt sleeve comfortable during the day.
There are Nature Trails nearby and visits to any of the Parks' attractions can be arranged. This B&B also offers Reiki massage and other therapeutic activities.
Our marvelous gourmet dinner started with cold shrimp salad with fresh basil and lemon zest, followed by a great garden salad. Next we had baked white fish with with lime zest and lemon oil and wild rice with cranberries. We finished with stacked spice cake with baked cinnamon , raisins, pecans, a fresh whipped cream. Ginger House does not serve alcohol, so if you want wine with your meals, bring your own.
A medley of wild bird calls, parrot squawks, and hummingbird chirps woke us, and we had a fine breakfast of quiche and fresh fruit.
If you want to be pampered and enjoy the sights and sounds of the rain forest in a refreshing spring-like atmosphere, I highly recommend Ginger House.
My wife treated me to a night at Ginger House for my birthday. Ginger House is an upscale Bed and Breakfast surrounded by rain forest and adorned with many beautiful flowers. Capuchin Monkeys and Coatimundis are frequent visitors. Situated at about 2700 feet above sea level, the area is cool, sometimes chilly, at night and shirt sleeve comfortable during the day.
There are Nature Trails nearby and visits to any of the Parks' attractions can be arranged. This B&B also offers Reiki massage and other therapeutic activities.
Our marvelous gourmet dinner started with cold shrimp salad with fresh basil and lemon zest, followed by a great garden salad. Next we had baked white fish with with lime zest and lemon oil and wild rice with cranberries. We finished with stacked spice cake with baked cinnamon , raisins, pecans, a fresh whipped cream. Ginger House does not serve alcohol, so if you want wine with your meals, bring your own.
A medley of wild bird calls, parrot squawks, and hummingbird chirps woke us, and we had a fine breakfast of quiche and fresh fruit.
If you want to be pampered and enjoy the sights and sounds of the rain forest in a refreshing spring-like atmosphere, I highly recommend Ginger House.
Written 21 December 2009
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
PaulAK2011
Anchorage, AK494 contributions
Jan 2017 • Friends
Our day trip was arranged and guided by our good friend Luis Calvo of Panama Travel & Tours based in Panama City. We drove to a lake pickup spot in Chagres Nat Park. There we met our Embera guide and host. We boarded the wooden, carved dug out and motored across the lake and into the jungle river. We passed the two lower Embera villages and went far up river thru dense jungle with birds & monkeys. Finally we reached river rapids and after making our way up thru several, we arrived at the Embera Drua village. We toured the indigenous village of 113. We were given demonstrations of the wonderful wood carvings and basket weaving, and then each family had a display table of their things for sale. We had a welcome dance, and lunch of local fish from the river and fruit. It was a trip back in time to see these friendly people still living mostly as their ancestors did long ago. This is a "must see" for travelers wanting to see and do more than just the pools and beaches of Panama.
Written 23 January 2017
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Khuna
Isla de Vieques, Puerto Rico1 828 contributions
Jun 2016
Visiting the Chagres National Forest and meeting the Embreas tribe was by far the highlight of our Panama visit. At first I was not sure about doing this day trip as it was the last full day of our trip, it was raining off and on, and I kinda just wanted to hang out for a day. But my better half insisted we go.. and I am so glad I listened to her.
Our tour guide took care of everything for us, including paying for the entrance to the park, which seemed more of a honor process than a gated process. When we got to the end of the dirt road, we got out of the car and walked down the hill to the dug out canoe. I was not expecting this, but it was very cool. There we several canoes there waiting for their visitors and as it turned out there are several villages along the river and the visit is coordinated by your tour guide. So doing this on your own may not be that easy. Recognizing that I only visited one of the villages, the rest of my review only speaks to that village.
The ride up the river was awesome... just what you'd expect in a place like this... waterfalls and camen along the way... arriving at the village was something like Jurassic Park... With palm roofed buildings, jungle, and campfire smoke the experience was real. As we got out of the canoe, we were greeted by most of the tribe, with handshakes and welcoming remarks. They frequently said welcome to our community. And we were the only visitors had on this day. They were very respectful to us and shared their culture and dance with us. Pulling us into their dance was also a blast.
They also offered many handcrafts for sale. Each family had their own table, many offering the same wood carvings, baskets, and bracelets. So, I bought something from every family... it made me feel good and I truly enjoyed my souvenirs. A couple of the tribe members spoke English which surprised me. They are a very proud people and want to keep their culture the way it is. They do make money off tourists, but this is not a tourist trap. It's the real deal.
I thank my tour guide and his wife for making this experience as great as it was. We were lucky when we found our tour guide here on Trip Advisor.
Our tour guide took care of everything for us, including paying for the entrance to the park, which seemed more of a honor process than a gated process. When we got to the end of the dirt road, we got out of the car and walked down the hill to the dug out canoe. I was not expecting this, but it was very cool. There we several canoes there waiting for their visitors and as it turned out there are several villages along the river and the visit is coordinated by your tour guide. So doing this on your own may not be that easy. Recognizing that I only visited one of the villages, the rest of my review only speaks to that village.
The ride up the river was awesome... just what you'd expect in a place like this... waterfalls and camen along the way... arriving at the village was something like Jurassic Park... With palm roofed buildings, jungle, and campfire smoke the experience was real. As we got out of the canoe, we were greeted by most of the tribe, with handshakes and welcoming remarks. They frequently said welcome to our community. And we were the only visitors had on this day. They were very respectful to us and shared their culture and dance with us. Pulling us into their dance was also a blast.
They also offered many handcrafts for sale. Each family had their own table, many offering the same wood carvings, baskets, and bracelets. So, I bought something from every family... it made me feel good and I truly enjoyed my souvenirs. A couple of the tribe members spoke English which surprised me. They are a very proud people and want to keep their culture the way it is. They do make money off tourists, but this is not a tourist trap. It's the real deal.
I thank my tour guide and his wife for making this experience as great as it was. We were lucky when we found our tour guide here on Trip Advisor.
Written 5 July 2016
This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews as part of our industry-leading trust & safety standards. Read our transparency report to learn more.
Kelleygirl2
Sarasota, FL6 302 contributions
Feb 2019 • Couples
Our Overseas Adventure Travel group were loaded into long, narrow canoes that were outfitted with a small outboard motor and were expertly guided down the rocky and sometimes swift Chagres River. Aguinaldo was our handsome and kind bow poke man keeping us clear of the rocks through the rapids in the river.
We had put in at a wide lake-like portion of the river but soon, as the river began to narrow, Aguinaldo began calling directional changes as we navigated the often rushing and turbulent waters. As we traveled we watched several canoes loaded with passengers that were forcing their human cargo to disembark into the river so their crew could pull the boat over the rocks. Happily Aguinaldo was much more experienced and we had a safe and lovely forty minute journey to his village down river.
There were several canoes loaded with people traveling in our direction and I was worried that this visit was going to be too touristy but I soon realized that many of the people in the canoes looked to be Panamanians who were stopping on a Sunday afternoon at little beaches that were peppered along the river’s edge. As we approached Aguinaldo’s village we began to see more straw hut villages tucked into the hillsides indicating a close knit series of the Embera community.
The Embera tribe originated from the Darien region in Panama. These people have lived in this area for centuries, long before the Spanish came to this region. It is unknown whether their ancestors migrated from elsewhere (there are rumors of Brazil or Polynesia) but no one knows for sure. At this time about 30,000 Embera Indians still live in the Darien region. The government of Panama recognizes the seven unique Indigenous tribes who live here and have been given a Comarca (similar to a reservation in North America) but these people were never forced from their home territories and were never forced into boarding schools or punished for maintaining their language and culture. Because they were allowed this independence their language, culture, traditions and lifestyle are still intact.
Rural life in the Darien region is not easy. Schools, supplies, medicine, and doctors are 6-10 hours away. For this reason many of the Embera tribes migrated from Darien to the Chagre National Park where they would have better access to things we take for granted as well as a possibility to develop a culture of tourism that would provide income for their daily needs. Panama has been very supportive encouraging these people in this way of life. Given this opportunity these lovely and happy people are maintaining pride in their culture and the opportunity to maintain their heritage.
As our canoes rounded the tree laden bend we pulled up along the sandy shore of the Embera Drua Village where members of the community came down to the beach to greet us and welcome us with their music. Once out of our canoes and assembled on the beach, our group began to climb the steps up the bank to their grass hut village overlooking the river where we were met and brought into a community grass "hut" where we were entertained by the local people.
The men and women of the village were dressed in their traditional outfits that, we were told, they always wear in the village and only dress in modern clothes when they leave to go to the city for supplies. The women’s traditional skirts were once bark but now are brightly colored cloth complemented by colorful beaded halters or bra like tops to cover their breasts. Their long dark hair also serves as modesty for some but before westerners entered the picture many women were simply topless. Men wore beautifully woven beaded “modesty” skirts barely covering their essentials and some had beaded “necklaces” draped across their chests. Many of the men and women were tattooed with henna on much of their bodies and faces.
The women of the tribe surprised us by coming to each of us ladies placing a beautiful woven headpiece made of hibiscus flowers on our heads. Once adorned, these handsome men and women performed a traditional circle dance with flutes and drums to keep the rhythm. With generous smiles we were all invited to join them in their ceremonial dance.
After a lunch that was prepared for us we were given the opportunity to shop in the shade of their long grass hut where every family had their colorful works arrayed on the long tables. We all were pleasantly surprised with the quality of workmanship on display and were eager to bring some of their work home with us while supporting the tribe. The sales of these beautiful handicrafts and artworks goes a long way to support the tribe’s life in the village but these baskets and other handicrafts take many hours, even days and weeks to complete. The sales of their efforts therefore are important to the tribe but I don’t think they ever receive their due for the long hours spent on these handicrafts, not to mention the value for the creation of their own art often equalling pennies per hour for their efforts. While we were told we could bargain, I felt it was not right given the amount of time, talent and labor spent for these beautiful pieces.
I thought Aguinaldo’s family’s artwork and handiworks to be of the best quality and so purchased a woven basket made of hand dyed palm fibers with the design of a red hibiscus in the center and a classic Embera design around the edge. I also bought a beautifully carved frog from a Wagana or Tagua Palm nut that had been painted green with red detail. These palm nuts look like ivory but are a renewable resource. After shopping I photographed Aguinaldo and his lovely wife Lisnet, also a talented handicrafter, and son Gael (baby Genesis was sleeping).
I later for a walk in the densely treed jungle to see what birds were there. I missed the tattoos but I was very lucky to come across a dark brown Montezuma oropendola perched high in the trees. I had heard their wonderful call but it was his bright yellow tail that gave him away. With patience I was successful in capturing his image as he stoically sat and watched. After my jungle walk I came back into the sunshine and was able to photograph the unique elongated oropendola nests hanging from some branches of the palm trees, but the owners of the nests remained hidden in the darkened jungle foliage.
I highly recommend a visit to meet these lovely people. It will provide an opportunity to see a people whose heritage is kept alive through their passion and love of their unique culture.
We had put in at a wide lake-like portion of the river but soon, as the river began to narrow, Aguinaldo began calling directional changes as we navigated the often rushing and turbulent waters. As we traveled we watched several canoes loaded with passengers that were forcing their human cargo to disembark into the river so their crew could pull the boat over the rocks. Happily Aguinaldo was much more experienced and we had a safe and lovely forty minute journey to his village down river.
There were several canoes loaded with people traveling in our direction and I was worried that this visit was going to be too touristy but I soon realized that many of the people in the canoes looked to be Panamanians who were stopping on a Sunday afternoon at little beaches that were peppered along the river’s edge. As we approached Aguinaldo’s village we began to see more straw hut villages tucked into the hillsides indicating a close knit series of the Embera community.
The Embera tribe originated from the Darien region in Panama. These people have lived in this area for centuries, long before the Spanish came to this region. It is unknown whether their ancestors migrated from elsewhere (there are rumors of Brazil or Polynesia) but no one knows for sure. At this time about 30,000 Embera Indians still live in the Darien region. The government of Panama recognizes the seven unique Indigenous tribes who live here and have been given a Comarca (similar to a reservation in North America) but these people were never forced from their home territories and were never forced into boarding schools or punished for maintaining their language and culture. Because they were allowed this independence their language, culture, traditions and lifestyle are still intact.
Rural life in the Darien region is not easy. Schools, supplies, medicine, and doctors are 6-10 hours away. For this reason many of the Embera tribes migrated from Darien to the Chagre National Park where they would have better access to things we take for granted as well as a possibility to develop a culture of tourism that would provide income for their daily needs. Panama has been very supportive encouraging these people in this way of life. Given this opportunity these lovely and happy people are maintaining pride in their culture and the opportunity to maintain their heritage.
As our canoes rounded the tree laden bend we pulled up along the sandy shore of the Embera Drua Village where members of the community came down to the beach to greet us and welcome us with their music. Once out of our canoes and assembled on the beach, our group began to climb the steps up the bank to their grass hut village overlooking the river where we were met and brought into a community grass "hut" where we were entertained by the local people.
The men and women of the village were dressed in their traditional outfits that, we were told, they always wear in the village and only dress in modern clothes when they leave to go to the city for supplies. The women’s traditional skirts were once bark but now are brightly colored cloth complemented by colorful beaded halters or bra like tops to cover their breasts. Their long dark hair also serves as modesty for some but before westerners entered the picture many women were simply topless. Men wore beautifully woven beaded “modesty” skirts barely covering their essentials and some had beaded “necklaces” draped across their chests. Many of the men and women were tattooed with henna on much of their bodies and faces.
The women of the tribe surprised us by coming to each of us ladies placing a beautiful woven headpiece made of hibiscus flowers on our heads. Once adorned, these handsome men and women performed a traditional circle dance with flutes and drums to keep the rhythm. With generous smiles we were all invited to join them in their ceremonial dance.
After a lunch that was prepared for us we were given the opportunity to shop in the shade of their long grass hut where every family had their colorful works arrayed on the long tables. We all were pleasantly surprised with the quality of workmanship on display and were eager to bring some of their work home with us while supporting the tribe. The sales of these beautiful handicrafts and artworks goes a long way to support the tribe’s life in the village but these baskets and other handicrafts take many hours, even days and weeks to complete. The sales of their efforts therefore are important to the tribe but I don’t think they ever receive their due for the long hours spent on these handicrafts, not to mention the value for the creation of their own art often equalling pennies per hour for their efforts. While we were told we could bargain, I felt it was not right given the amount of time, talent and labor spent for these beautiful pieces.
I thought Aguinaldo’s family’s artwork and handiworks to be of the best quality and so purchased a woven basket made of hand dyed palm fibers with the design of a red hibiscus in the center and a classic Embera design around the edge. I also bought a beautifully carved frog from a Wagana or Tagua Palm nut that had been painted green with red detail. These palm nuts look like ivory but are a renewable resource. After shopping I photographed Aguinaldo and his lovely wife Lisnet, also a talented handicrafter, and son Gael (baby Genesis was sleeping).
I later for a walk in the densely treed jungle to see what birds were there. I missed the tattoos but I was very lucky to come across a dark brown Montezuma oropendola perched high in the trees. I had heard their wonderful call but it was his bright yellow tail that gave him away. With patience I was successful in capturing his image as he stoically sat and watched. After my jungle walk I came back into the sunshine and was able to photograph the unique elongated oropendola nests hanging from some branches of the palm trees, but the owners of the nests remained hidden in the darkened jungle foliage.
I highly recommend a visit to meet these lovely people. It will provide an opportunity to see a people whose heritage is kept alive through their passion and love of their unique culture.
Written 1 April 2019
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How much is the tour for kids ages 12/13 and 2 adults?
Written 16 March 2016
Not sure, The price of the trip through The Real Panama tours was $65pp for our group of three. +507-6522-6210. I had the owner's business card so you can call and see. Sorhay is her name.
Written 16 March 2016
We'll be heading to Panama in March. I do have some mobility issues and am wondering about your comment regarding that. How difficult is it to get in and out of the canoes?
Thanks,
Karen
Written 1 February 2016
They have low sides and the guy will help you in. I think you should be OK.
Written 3 February 2016
Can you use a rental car to drive to the park from Panama City? Also what are the places of accommodation that I can look into?
Written 20 December 2015
You can drive to the park but there is no accommodation there as far as I am aware apart from staying in the Ember native village which is reached by canoe. It is usually a guided day trip and staying in the village can barely arranged.
Written 22 December 2015
Comment m'y rendre au départ de l'hôtel Decameron, car je voudrais aussi voir les Emberas avec mes enfants de 4 et 11 ans. Les excursions à partir de l'hôtel sont chers, quelqu'un a t'il des conseils à me donner ?
merci
Written 30 September 2015
Ini David, did you do this tour as part of my friend Marios combined tour with the Gatun lock. The website doesn't seem to advertise just the ember a Indian village tour on its own? How long did the tour take?
Written 19 September 2015
will wildlife ( howler monkeys, sloths, toucans etc) be visible as we go thru Chagres Natl Park or is the "wildlife" adventure elsewhere?
Written 6 March 2015
Yes. You will be able to see the monkeys, sloths and many other animals in the wild. But, you will need to have good eyes because they all tend to hide. And, the howler monkeys can easily be heard.
Written 9 March 2015
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